Of all the countries on earth South Africa would have to rate as one of the most interesting. I may not have been to all the countries in the world – in fact, I’ve been to less than 5% of them – but let’s disregard that technicality and pretend I’m an expert, shall we?
South Africa is like a Rubik’s cube. Hard to solve, full of hope, colourful, yet dangerous. With an insane history comprising of an unbelievably racist apartheid policy and a couple of wars the nation of South Africa has some pretty severe scars, however about a decade and a half ago some guy by the name of Nelson tried to heal them. Now, in the year 2009, one can sense that there is still tension lurking somewhere however the focus is now on the future, and on next year’s World Cup.
Over here, you would have to be living under a rock to not be aware of the events unfolding in 2010. In fact, even a rock dweller would be 2010-conscious such is the hype and noise (created by annoying vuvuzelas) surrounding the coming year’s festivities. Despite South Africa’s incompetence in the world of soccer (Bafana Bafana – the national squad – will almost certainly be knocked out in round one) next year’s World Cup brings with it much anticipation. It’s a chance for the world to see South Africa as a prospering, first world nation rather than an eclectic landmass with an identity crisis.
My five months in South Africa were spent in a variety of places. Gauteng – the province home to crime-ridden Johannesburg and the safer capital of Pretoria – was my home for roughly a month and it was here that I witnessed the white-dominated, richer side of the country. Here, the rough and disgusting language of Afrikaans is spoken (think a sick love-child of German and Dutch) by diehard rugby supporters, however I prefer to remember this part of South Africa differently. While friendly locals go by their daily lives in the northern suburbs, protected by electric fences and security, the dangers of the city centre and Soweto lurk beneath. While I may not have seen any violence, crime or severe poverty it is understandable why many living in first-world Johannesburg prefer to remain relatively isolated from the horrors down south. The city does, after all, have a reputation for being the world’s most dangerous municipality.
Hence Jo’burg is a multi-dimesional city; a drive from one end of town to the other may take you two to three hours, however on the way you can witness astounding contrasts. Some elements – such as the high walls surrounding properties and the homeless people handing out flyers on the street – remain constant the whole way down, but the quality of living evidently decreases the further south one travels.
The province helps paint a much broader picture of the entire country in that vast differences exist practically everywhere. It’s hard to believe that poor people from small villages – where traditional healers and abortion clinics are the easiest shops to find – consider South Africa to be their home just as much as businessmen from Cape Town or Durban do. Many of those living in the bigger cities may admit to not living in the real Africa; it’s the seemingly forgotten towns in Limpopo and Mpumalanga that people are more likely to associate with women carrying bags on their head, crowded minibuses, wild animals and general dodginess (TIA kind of stuff).
Many travelers believe that living in South Africa can potentially make you more racist, and I can somewhat see where these people are coming from. In saying that, it really depends on who you hang out with while you’re here. As shocking as it is, there are still many white people who are intolerant of black people, and these individuals – who have spent the majority of their life in an apartheid era that offered them many privileges – are more likely to deliver a cynical, negative view of the country.
For example, the first South African I spoke to was a taxi driver who lived in Gauteng. She was a very nice lady, but her pessimism about the nation and its political situation (the president being accused of rape prior to his induction) was infectious. She made me believe that this beautiful country was on the verge of crashing like Zimbabwe and that Mandela’s imminent death could potentially bring rebellion and nationwide violence. Personally I don’t understand what motive any person could have for ruining South Africa – a country that is about to be placed on a pedestal in front of the entire world. I pray to God that Zuma is more of a Mandela than a Mugabe.
Speaking of God, religion is an interesting element of South Africa. It seems that most countries well-developed in terms of infrastructure and technology are predominantly atheist (in that civilians worship materialism and celebrities in place of a divine being), while countries of famine, poverty and disease seem to see the light. As South Africa combines the ‘best’ of both worlds there is subsequently a mix in beliefs. Nominally the nation is predominantly Christian and from what I’ve witnessed I would agree, but then again I spent 90% of my time teaching at a Christian school and working at a church so I’m probably not the most objective judge.
The ZCC – the fastest growing African church – is an interesting case as it combines the fundamental beliefs of Christianity with those of ancestral worship. This peculiar mix and match approach is popular amongst many South Africans, however some of their practices are perceived with disapproval by the remainder of the nation.
Perhaps the country’s most intriguing aspect is sport, with races divided by different codes. In response to apartheid, quotas were introduced that required at least one non-white player to be represented in the rugby and cricket squads. Thankfully these unintentionally racist regulations (that seemed to highlight discrimination rather than embrace unity) are no longer in place, however it is evident that different race groups place their allegiances in different games.
The ‘world game’ of soccer is of course supported by almost everybody, however matches seem to only be attended by blacks. Similarly rugby draws huge crowds, but the crowds are almost always dominated by whites. Cricket – being the world’s greatest sport – is possibly the most multi-racial contest; the black, white and coloured populations are well represented in both the national team and in the spectators.
As much as people try to deny it race relations and discrimination (whether it be racist or not) still play a huge part in this country. What is reaffirming, though, is how cross-cultural relationships are no longer uncommon. Seeing white and black children playing together is a positive step forward in the right direction. It may take a whole generation, or even two, for all racial tension to be eliminated but at least the future is bright.
Disregarding the politics and racial differences South Africa is an absolutely beautiful country. Not many nations can boast both skyscrapers and safaris; malls and mudhuts. It’s a land of versatility, positivity, and pride that shouldn’t be cancelled off your travel wish-list just because of an unfriendly reputation. It tends to be only the bad stories that are heard, but here’s an exception: I spent five months here and had an incredible time; I met amazing people, witnessed unbelievable natural wonders and did not come across any crime. But don’t take my word for it; why not check it out for yourself?
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